Nazareth – A surprising Culinary Find
by Zehorit Heilicher, Tastemaker in Residence
Pilgrims and tourists abound in Nazareth, located in northern Israel and well known for its famous past resident. Jesus’ hometown has been a draw for centuries for the religious, curious and adventurous. Yet, in the past 5-10 years, there are pilgrimages to the city of a new kind. The city’s unique blend of Arab, Israeli, Jewish, Muslim and Christian population, combines Arab Galilean food and ancient tradition’s influences to create a contemporary cuisine. The city now offers a kaleidoscope of experiences for foodie travel: whether you are looking for the perfect hummus, exotic spice blends, clean and colorful markets or a fragrant cup of coffee – Nazareth has it all.
So, on a beautiful Israeli fall day, I ventured with my parents and two of my girls to meet my friends who live in the area. We started our day walking from the city’s center towards the Church of Annunciation, which sits majestically at the opening to the market. The church is one of many in the city and definitely worth the visit. However, our focus was culinary, so we marched on into the market. Nazareth’s market has been updated and cleaned and thankfully, the center canal dividing its alleyways no longer has sewage running through it. The stalls are colorful and carry souvenirs, kitchen and cooking items, spices, apparel and more.
Feeling parched, we stopped to refuel at Café Abu Salem, which claims to have the honor of being the first coffee shop in Israel, established in 1914. Some of us chose to sample the shop’s specialty: a fragrant hot tea, seasoned with cinnamon and ground walnuts, its flavor spicy and earthy. Others chose a beautifully hued lemonade, flavored with pomegranate and hibiscus syrup – tangy sweet and thirst-quenching. All were served with a flourish and a smile along with a history lesson on the coffee shop’s ancestry and origin. The place was humming with card and backgammon playing customers, under a beautiful 3-tier chandelier made to order in Jordan, representing the 3 generations of owners.
For our next stop, we chose to quiet our rumbling stomachs and followed the recommendation of the coffee shop owner to Khazen’s Falafel Shop. We were seated on low wooden stools around small square tables in a tiny narrow room and wondered what we got ourselves into… Until the food started showing up! Plate after plate of small delicious bites – all homemade and the definition of fresh! Steaming hot, crispy falafel, lemony tahini, briny pickles, herbaceous tabouleh, and bright yellow cauliflower – all kept coming to our delight and satisfaction. Khazen’s husband and wife duo were so warm and welcoming, the love between them palpable and their pride in their labor apparent. Their shop even appears in a new Hummus cookbook that came out this past year!
We said our warm farewells with a promise to visit again and continued our stroll through the market’s narrow streets and arched alleys. We followed our nose to Fahoum Coffee and Spice shop. We were treated to samples of FRESH coffee: freshly roasted, ground and brewed. Fragrant and strong – this coffee is not for the faint of heart! We purchased some cardamom coffee; ground and hand-blended to order in front of our eyes! The aroma was divine! We were given a quick tour of the back room, where the coffee is stored and roasted. The smells have been absorbed into the walls of this ancient shop and it felt like we were breathing coffee…
Next came the well-known El Babour Spice Shop. It is literally an Aladdin’s cave of treasures. The humble sign on the door does not prepare you for the descent into a multi-room hall in an old crusader time building. It is divided into rooms lined with sacks brimming with herbs, spices, nuts and more. I could have spent a whole day there on my own, but my companions were urging me to move forward. I purchased a tisane for upset stomach, some Za’atar and sumac (how could you not??).
Then it was time for another tasting: AlMashadawy Bakery. We were treated to a local specialty of Labneh (yogurt cheese) spread on a fresh thin pita (similar to a thin, soft pizza crust), then piled with tangy herbaceous greens, topped with hot sauce and rolled together, before it is toasted. We were NOT hungry, yet nothing was left of that deliciousness…
Our last stop was Tishreen: a contemporary restaurant that has been a pioneer in bringing the Arab Galilean cuisine into the gourmet kitchen. It preserves and represents its roots beautifully, in a setting and presentation that appeals to the fine dining seeker. The interior is reminiscent of a Galilean home, featuring ancient stones and arches with iron scrolls. We enjoyed their Shanklish salad – made with the local Shanklish cheese made on the premise. The Arabic pastries and Kibbeh (meat stuffed burghul pockets) were crispy and flavorful and the drink menu offers some Middle Eastern specialties like Tamarind juice and Sahlab (a sweet milk pudding). The service was prompt and gracious, true to the Middle Eastern hospitality.
We concluded the day with a walk back to our car around the city’s main square with a promise to return and explore some more of a city that has much to offer.
